"Fourth wave of the day. It was also his last wave of the day. As Chad (Jackson) was towed back into the lineup after his bomb another lump entered the arena. With no one else in position, brad swung round and set about getting chad one as good as his last. The ride was nearly over, but the wave wasn't done with chad just yet, clipping him at the end and it sent him down, way down. Chad describes the waterly depths as, "a black hole, seriously a bottomless pit. I opened my eyes and could just see bubbles and darkness." On the surface brad was watching the board tombstone as he searched for any sign of chad. Eventually the man climbed his leash back to the surface, tapping out for the rest of the session. Without hesitation, chad thinks that if his leash snapped he would have drowned, unable to find the surface in the inky blackness, swimming until consciousness disappeared."
viagem pelos bastidores
"Fourth wave of the day. It was also his last wave of the day. As Chad (Jackson) was towed back into the lineup after his bomb another lump entered the arena. With no one else in position, brad swung round and set about getting chad one as good as his last. The ride was nearly over, but the wave wasn't done with chad just yet, clipping him at the end and it sent him down, way down. Chad describes the waterly depths as, "a black hole, seriously a bottomless pit. I opened my eyes and could just see bubbles and darkness." On the surface brad was watching the board tombstone as he searched for any sign of chad. Eventually the man climbed his leash back to the surface, tapping out for the rest of the session. Without hesitation, chad thinks that if his leash snapped he would have drowned, unable to find the surface in the inky blackness, swimming until consciousness disappeared."
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8 comentários:
"Ya have to know that to enjoy the ultimate ride you have to be willing to pay the ultimate price"
(Andy Irons)
Mr Charles, nunce deves ter visto o Ruptura Explosiva... Essa frase, não é do Andy Irons, é do Patrick Swayze
acontece muito...a uns quantos ja aconteceu nao voltar...e se esta malta continua a insistir em surfar essas ondas ainda maiores e mais pesadas volta a acontecer :(
LOL, a sério? Porra, ok, então é Andy Irons no documentário com o "Clipper", o avião da Billabong, citando Patrick Swayze...e com cara séria . Ainda bem que sou fã do Kelly Slater :P
PS: Tenho de revisitar a cinematografia série B
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d4-Fso2EZq8
Aliás a frase nem é essa... Mas "prontos".
Eu acho que o autor da frase, foi o Havaiano Mark Foo que morreu em Maverikcs
tlai
Bem, que o Andy Irons a disse, disse. Mas também é inegável que o autor do argumento desse infame Point Break(que serviu de inspiração a uma peça tetral cómica com o mesmo nome, tão espectacularmente kitsch que é...) teve a mesma ideia.
O Mark Foo?...acho que se não o disse por palavras, demonstrou-o...
Seja como for, acho que é uma verdade incontornável. Sim, surfar tem riscos e pode-se até morrer em ondas de meio-metro (nas condições "certas"). E é esse um dos fascínios de surfar. Costumo dizer que uma onda é toda uma comprimida em alguns segundos. Há algumas (poucas, felizmente) das quais não se vai sair mas, porra, valem todas cada segundo...
Boas ondas
"Uma onda é toda uma vida comprimida em alguns segundos"...assim faz sentido :)
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